Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics: an expert's opinion

Why are hyaluronic acid-based products so popular?

T. Shapovalenko: In my opinion, the main reason for its popularity is that hyaluronic acid is the best natural skin moisturizer, a component of the intercellular substance responsible for the elasticity, smoothness, and hydration of the skin. With age, as well as due to external factors (dry indoor air, temperature changes, poor diet, stress, etc.), the amount of natural hyaluronic acid decreases, and, unfortunately, this affects the skin: it becomes drier, premature wrinkles appear, and a feeling of tightness arises. This is why there is a need to compensate for the loss of natural hyaluronic acid with the help of cosmetics.

And how realistic is it to achieve this effect with the help of a cream applied topically – to compensate for the deficiency of hyaluronic acid in the skin? Can a cream guarantee such an effect?

T. Shapovalenko: Good question. My colleagues and I researched this and concluded that a cream's effectiveness directly depends on two factors. First, the cream must contain low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid; any other type works only on the skin's surface and therefore does not replenish the skin's own hyaluronic acid deficiency. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has microscopic molecules, which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin. The second factor is the active ingredient. The higher its concentration, the more effective the cream will be. From a scientific perspective, substances are transported across the membrane by diffusion from an area of ​​high concentration to an area of ​​lower concentration, meaning low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid naturally penetrates the skin along a concentration gradient.

Yes, it's interesting, and very scientifically sound. How can a woman who wants to buy an effective cream determine what kind of hyaluronic acid it contains and in what quantity?

T. Shapovalenko:The simplest thing is to carefully study the ingredients before purchasing. If the label says "low molecular weight hyaluronic acid," then it's a decent cream, and if you also find information like "increased concentration or content of hyaluronic acid," then you're holding a product that will definitely live up to your expectations. Also, pay attention to the place of sale. For example, pharmacy cosmetics are more reliable and trustworthy.

And here's a question: before applying decorative cosmetics, it is recommended to first use a moisturizer. Is hyaluronic cream suitable for this purpose?

T. Shapovalenko: Yes, but not every hyaluronic cream will work as a good makeup base. Indeed, it's always best to moisturize your skin before applying makeup, and the hydration should be deep enough to protect it from being overdried by makeup all day long. For this purpose, a cream with low-molecular hyaluronic acid is best, as it provides deep, long-lasting hydration. Another important point, I think many women will understand, is that sometimes you apply a cream and it gradually starts to roll off. These creams contain film-forming substances, so they leave a film on the face and are not suitable as a makeup base. Libriderm Hyaluronic Cream is well-suited for this purpose – it contains low-molecular hyaluronic acid in a high concentration and is also an ideal makeup base, as it does not form a film on the face, ensuring even application of makeup.

Very interesting information about creams that form a film on the face. I've often noticed that sometimes makeup, when applied to a cream, begins to lay unevenly or even roll off, but I didn't know why this happens. What are these film-forming substances?

T. Shapovalenko:As a rule, these are polymeric substances, high-molecular compounds that form a coating – a film – on the skin's surface. Among these groups of compounds are hydrophilic substances, which adsorb moisture on the skin's surface, and hydrophobic ones – for example, animal and vegetable waxes. A film can, for example, protect against dehydration—in this case, we would be talking about creams for superficial skin hydration. However, if the concentration of such compounds in a cream formula is too high, they can impede the skin's ability to breathe and can be comedogenic. As I mentioned earlier, such products are not very suitable for applying makeup—they can partially cake along with blush or powder.